Dragin Run is waiting in Zamin Uud and the waiting is boredom

Jack had arranged to pick up a new clutch in Erlian on Wednesday, getting a free ride on The Orient Express.  We said our goodbyes at 9AM, thinking that he would return that night.    While he was gone I tried to keep myself busy, but boredom set in and I slept most of the day.  I had crackers and cheese for lunch in the room, playing computer games.  I did watch Russian MTV, which counted down the top 20 videos that consisted mostly of RAP music.  I mention this only to show how desperate things can become for some English vocabulary. 

So at 4:40PM with the sun down,   I decided to roam the streets of Zamin Uud.  The train station is the hub of activity where there is a large, concreted square that looms out in front of the station littered with the waste of human consumption.  Attached to its periphery are several small markets and restaurants, all trying to capture the attention of those itinerant train passengers.  There are 12-15 year olds that roam the courtyard and will help you with anything to make a few Tugriks: stand in line and buy train tickets, help with your bags and who knows what other services these urchins provide for pay.  As I walk through the square, I am more hypersensitive to my surroundings and personal belongings that I carry.  Tamara had her gas tank stolen off her bike in this square, and the opportunity for thievery in this busy intersection of life is great.  It is a very non-descript border town with only a few main paved roads that lead into and out of town, ending at the outskirts.  There ahead is the myriad of desert-roads that lead to Ulaanbaatar.  Our experience on these roads was short lived, but I can only imagine the challenges we would have faced.   As I walk I can almost sense the despondency of those that remain while others can move on. 

By 9PM I decided not to look for Jack, realizing that the clutch had not arrived from Beijing and he would have to spend the night.  My thoughts were interrupted by a knock at the door.  It was the interpreter, Chuka, who had taken Jack to Erlian and she was alone.  She inquired about Jack and then confirmed that he would not return until tomorrow. 

So I am sitting here this morning trying to decide on what to do.  I keep thinking about Adventure Riders, but I never considered this as part of the adventure…the hurrying only to wait, the tediousness of waiting for parts or repairs, the boredom that sets into the hours and even days.  I want the wind in my face, the horizon zooming by (which will not happen on the Chang due to weight restraints) and physical challenges to solve.  We have been on the road exactly a month, and I have had only a few days of actual good riding:  the day we left Changchun, the day we crossed the Chinese and Mongolian borders and the day we entered the wilds of Mongolia.  I have done research about Adventure Riding on the internet and did not hear much about this down time.  Maybe it is like having a baby…once the baby is born you forget about the pain and discomfort.  I certainly hope so.  One day just flows into another, loosing track of time.  I found that Jack had been gone for another day, but no message to let me know what was happening.  I knew that he had not gotten the part, so another day had passed in Zamin Uud. 

By the next morning and no word, I was a bit worried.  I went to the train station to contact the people that had helped Jack on Wednesday: Chuka and the major in charge of the train station.  The major was very gracious and phoned Chuka, so I could talk with her.  I gave her Jack’s number and she called, but his phone had been turned off.  Well, I was quite worried now…what could have happened to him.  I have heard of some horror stories about people on the road, but I did not want to think about that possibility.  I have found that in my dealings with the Asians, my problem is more intense and things happen slowly for them, so I could not wait any longer and left. I had to do something and thought of another option to follow-up and that was email…maybe he sent me a message.  I would stop by the hotel and then go onto the internet bar.  While in the room, a knock came at the door and it was Jack.  I told him that I was angry with him, but that I was happier to see him.  I realize that the adventure is important, but I needed to put everything into perspective.  We are more important!  We have only been concentrating on the broken bike and not on having fun, which is what this trip was to be about.  So last night we took time and played billiards, I am bad but it was fun.  We also played Rummy and he won, but no matter, we were together.       

Jack and I wonder about the power or hand of fate that is interfering in our trip.  We do not name it, but it is on both of our minds.    Every time that we plan on riding in Mongolia there is an incident that thwarts this activity…just too many things happened in such a short period of time.  What it is, one can only guess.  I know that now the only way to reach Ulaanbaatar is by train, so no chance to ride.   Hopefully the part Jack was given will fix the broken clutch and we can leave on the next express train.

It is now Saturday morning and Jack gets an early start on the bike.  By late afternoon, the bike is back together and he will take it for a trial spin.  Not a minute later, he is in the room fuming and sputtering…the clutch doesn’t engage. I am not a mechanic, but I know this means that Max is going nowhere.  He tried all night to contact someone in Beijing with no luck.  Jack is not one to quit, so the next morning he is on the phone and finds out what to do.  It is now Sunday and we have been in Zamin Uud for 9 days, but who is counting.  He will pull the transmission, the carburetors and whatever else is necessary to reseat the clutch.  I know that this will be his last attempt to do it himself.  He is capable of fixing most mechanical problems, but he knows his limits.  If he is successful then we will leave on the express train tomorrow evening at 10PM bound for Ulaanbaatar.  If not, then it is up to the mechanic in Beijing to come here, assess the problem and fix it.  I am betting on someone coming to help.

It is Monday morning and I am at the post office.  As I was walking, I noticed some children crossing the street.  One small girl in particular caught my eye:  her hair was tangled, her dress torn and dirty and she was wearing no shoes.  My heart went out to her, but she seemed unaware of her plight.  The surroundings are run down and, I would consider, at a poverty level.  Yet, I see many vehicles on the road, cell phones galore and children riding bicycles…the mixture of life in general.  I know that water is a problem in this area, so this could account for the pallor that pervades this town. 

I know that I have been concentrating on the negatives of our stay in Zamin Uud, but there have been some positive happenings also.  First, with just a phone call he was able to find people to help him get to Erlian to pick up the replacement clutch.  Second, Jack did get a free ride on The Orient Express that travels from Moscow to Beijing. Third, I was able to photograph some Gers right here in the town limits, even though they are used for office space. Fourth, a real Mongolian cowboy road into our backyard this morning, so I was able to take some pictures.  Fifth, traveling in any third world country puts my life into perspective…I only have motorcycle problems to keep me from going around the world.  Sixth, we have had enough food to eat and pretty good, too; a roof over our heads; a shower (even though the water is cold); beds to sleep on ( hard, but we are using our camping mattresses); an internet bar at the post office and a laundry within walking distance.   Hey, it certainly could be a lot worse, like stuck in the desert with no water.  Seventh and most importantly, Jack and I have not had any physical accidents or ailments.  So all in all, our problems will be solved and we will finish our adventure. 

So keep watching and we will bring you up-to-date on the Murray’s adventure.

Bye for now!

Janet