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North America - 1
 I
need to back up, again, and mention the people at the
Servisair Cargo Gatwick warehouse who helped me prepare
the bike for air shipment.
When
Janet and I first arrived two workers were standing
outside the loading area. They motioned us over and one
of the guys said, “You must be the guy going to
Canada.” “Yes, how did you know?” Obviously there was
talk around the warehouse about a sidecar bike that was
to be shipped within a few days.
We
talked, said that we were waiting for documentation from
our agent – Motorcycle Services – and that we should
return the following day. I also asked about where I
could separate the bike and sidecar and would this be a
problem. “No, you can bring in the bike and work on it
here. Monday will be a quiet day and you can take as
much time as you need. Then we can put the two pieces
on a pallet and X-ray everything. Then you can put
everything back together and we will put the bike and
sidecar on a separate pallet for shipping. Then when
you pick up the bike in Toronto, you can just drive it
away with no fuss.”
To
separate the sidecar I had to remove the wheel and brake
caliper (the disk brake on the sidecar is activated by
the front brake on the bike). I had originally thought
that I would have to ship the separated parts and then
reassemble everything in Toronto. Now it should be
easy.
We
arrived the following day ready for Mr. Murphy to do his
thing: a slip in some unexpected little glitch that
would try our patience one more time. But not today!
We were provided with a large area where we could work
and a watcher (this was a bonded warehouse so we were
required to be under surveillance all the time) who not
only stayed with us but was a huge help both in the
removal of the sidecar and reassembly of the bike.
 With
the bike in hand, we headed off from Toronto towards the
US and for the first time the GPS failed to get us on
the right road or to respond quickly enough to make the
right turns at the appropriate time. Time to pull over
and get new bearings to send us on our way. That’s when
the police car pulled up behind me. I couldn’t believe
it. We had traveled over 25,000 miles in 30 countries
and now we were going to get a hassle.
At
first he had stopped to see if we needed help and then
he spotted the Chinese license plate. We talked for a
minute, “Odd plate you have there.” “Yes, we are riding
from China.” “CHINA?” “Yes, we have been on the road
for ten months. Here, you should enjoy this…” I showed
him my Chinese license and registration. There was the
usual incredulous laugh and then everyone relaxed. I
guess we talked for about 15 minutes during which I
explained my problem with the GPS. “Not to worry, our
GPS’ don’t work too well here either; too much
interference from all the electronics at the airport.”
Armed with clear, simple directions we were off on the
right road and heading for the States.
  To
say the ride was uneventful would be an understatement.
My only worry was US Customs and Immigration. I had
imagined that the officers there, seeing the Chinese
plate and knowing that we had traveled through so many
countries would decide to tear everything apart. We
pulled up to the officer and the first thing he said was
“Interesting plate you have there.” “Yes, we are riding
from China.” “CHINA?” “Yes, we have been on the road
for ten months. Here, you should enjoy this…” I showed
him my Chinese license and registration. There was the
usual incredulous laugh and then everyone relaxed. Then
another Customs officer came out to see the documents
and
chat for a moment and then we were waved on with good
wishes for the remaining part of our trip. Next stop
was at a lake side motel in a small Vermont Village
where we again were wished well from the local
residents.
I
was to be disappointed once again. I had planned to
ride the Auto Road to the summit of Mt. Washington in
New Hampshire. I have hiked and climbed this little
mountain (6,288 ft.) on about every trail and in all
twelve months of the year. What is interesting about
Mt. Washington is that it has the worst recorded weather
of any spot on earth! The last time we drove to the
summit was 39 years ago when our oldest son was only 11
months old. But the road was closed because there was
still ice and snow that made it impossible for regular
vehicles. Oh well!
We
called Janet’s brother and told him that we would be in
Hampton and I would finally get my lobster. Bob and
Mary Ann drove up to meet us and we headed out on my
lobster quest. For those of you who have never had
Maine lobster there is no way to describe the succulent
taste of the meat drenched in butter or the joy of
picking the meat from the joints of the legs where they
attach to the body or sucking small bits of eat from the
legs. The meal has to qualify as the best of the trip.
The only thing lacking was the steamed clams but we
would take care of that tomorrow.
Brown’s in Seabrook, NH was an old haunt for Janet and I
when we were first married and living in Hampton, NH.
We used to take the boat down the Hampton River and
cross Hampton Harbor to the Seabrook side and follow the
marsh to Brown’s. I would hold the boat while Janet
would run in and get a couple of lobsters and some
steamed clams. Then we would anchor in the river near
the bridge and pig out on our purchase. Returning to
Brown’s now was almost like going home.
We
had intended to get just the steamers but once there, I
couldn’t resist. First, I ordered fried clams, just
enough for a taste you know. Then we ordered a big
lobster and the steamers. Heaven, I don’t think there
is a better place for lobster and clams in the world
except my house when I cook them.
 We
stayed with Bob and Mary Ann for a week and then it was
time to head south to Florida to see Janet’s sister and
her husband. The visit was just what we needed. A real
rest with family and some good home cooked food. The
only difficulty I had was in listening to Bob extol the
virtues of his Harley Davidson motorcycle over all other
bikes. As a concession to his constant harangue, I
offered to put a picture of his bike here. Maybe now
I’ll get a little peace.
 So
far, the best part about traveling in the States is that
we speak the language and can read the signs and
everything here is far less expensive than the rest of
the world, except for China. Let me give you an
example. Gas here is running about $3.30 per gallon for
premium. In the UK I paid as much as $2.25 per liter.
Since there are 3.7854 liters in a gallon and that means
that we were paying $7.50 to $8.52 per gallon of gas and
it was more expensive in Turkey. Add to that, the
hotels and meals were almost always double. America has
more roadside stands for a wider variety of food and
substantially reduced prices. Hotels and motels are
cheaper. Everything is cheaper and that’s a good thing.
We
had to go to New York City to visit a Chinese student
that we helped come to the US to attend the Calhoun
School. Linda and her American mom, Brooke, are doing
really well and the visit was terrific. Equally good is
that Brooke’s husband Allen owns several Ollie’s Noodle
Shops where they serve real Chinese food, the kind I am
used to from my years in China and not at all like the
traditional American Chinese restaurants that are so
common here.
  I
had been in New York about 18 months ago on the American
Odyssey, a trip that I run annually to bring Perfect
English students to America. While there I found a
terrific little restaurant called the Columbus Grill at
Columbus and 72nd. Since I had eaten there several
times during my stay (the kids and chaperones were all
housed with Calhoun families) I got to know Shekhar
Gowda, one of the owners. While we talked, I told him
about the Dragin’ Run and he told me that if I returned
to the City, he would buy me a bottle of champagne.
As
it turned out, our hotel was about a half a block from
the restaurant so I suggested that we go for dinner and
see if he would recognize me. Well the Columbus Grill
wasn’t there! There is a new restaurant called the
Earthen Oven, a traditional Indian restaurant. I was
really disappointed.
But
I went in anyway and asked if the restaurant had been
sold. “No, it was just renamed.” “Is the owner here?”
“Yes, that’s him over there.” I approached the man
knowing it was the same guy that I had met before. “Hi,
do you remember me?” He paused. “Ah, no, I’m sorry.”
I gave him one of my Dragin’ Run cards and in a flash he
said, “You have made it. Of course I remember you.”
And then he walked to the bar and ordered a bottle of
champagne. “Just like I promised you”, he said. We
were seated and he suggested lamb chops, we agreed. The
meal was fabulous and then I asked for the bill. “No,
it’s on the house, just like I promised.” And people
complain that New Yorkers are cold and inhospitable.
The
disappointing part of riding in the States is that
everything seems so sterile. Virtually everything
smacks of overkill. The roads are a bit too good,
hotels and motels are a bit too sanitary and everyone is
a bit too persnickety. Everything is a bit too much.
That is not to say that we haven’t met some down to
earth people it’s just that the overall impression I get
is overkill on everything.
 For
example, one of the brackets that holds the windshield
on the bike broke again (BMW, you should really look
into this problem, it has plagued me since Morocco). I
pulled into Rainbow’s Paint & Body Shop and asked if
they could weld the two pieces together. “Sure, you
take it off the bike and I’ll fix it for you.” He
ground the paint off, welded the bracket and then
reinforced it and repainted it. When I asked how much,
he told me, “Forget it, not too much of a job and you
have a long way to go.” And then I saw the sign, Our
Insurance Prohibits Customers In The Work Area. I
guess I had forgotten that big business and big brother
run American lives. Can’t smoke here, can’t eat this or
that, can’t water, can’t…, can’t…, cant… I much prefer
places like Mongolia and Morocco where if you don’t do
something, you don’t survive. I can’t wait to get into
northwestern Canada and Alaska where self reliance is
more the norm than conformity. Maybe I’m just getting
old and crotchety. But then, maybe I like the way I am
maturing—more like milk and less like fine wine.
We
arrived in Palm Bay, Florida on June 2nd and
today is the 6th. Today is Janet’s and my 43rd
wedding anniversary. Amazing! Janet has done well, in
fact much better than I had originally expected. In
truth we are both doing pretty well.
I
return to China for about ten days to check on Perfect
English. Well it’s more like I show my face in town and
play Headmaster while Ella, Susan and Helen manage the
school. I’ll be back on the 18th, for my 65th
birthday and then we head off to New Orleans, Memphis,
(The Rendezvous for Ribs), Kansas City (for BBQ),
Duluth, Canada and Alaska.
It’s
gonna be great!
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